Discussion in 'Technical & Maintenance' started by fortech, Oct 10, 2014.
I assume this is out of the 525?
Not good ... but better now than ruining another adventure
No way, this bike is still almost new, Keith thinks maybe water pump as the parts manual only shows the complete unit.
It’s an ‘07 KTM 525. The best year of the RFS engine. They are well proven machines. I’ll yank the motor out and bring it in to Keith to see what we’re dealing with. He’s almost got the 640 motor back together and is going to pick up my R65 and replace the pawl spring so I can ride it down to Tennessee for the MOA rally.
I got the C-14 inspected, so I guess my season has finally begun. Ordered new tires for the KLR. 3° and rain today. Spring!
This should be titled what I did to my bike this week.
I decided to add a power distribution module to the GS to control accessories. In the space of one week, I have received one defective harness from Eastern Beaver, and two defective Denali PowerHub2 modules. Next up is a
FuzeBlock1 coming Monday.
Who could have guessed that this could be so difficult?
^^^that looks like fun
Love wrenching on the GS. Do you have the GS911?
Almost mandatory to own one...
Yes I do, and I agree that it is definitely beneficial.
In addition to being able to reset the Service Indicator, it also performs many diagnostic functions, including cycling the ABS when performing a brake flush. I have had it for several years now, and have used it on my F700GS, K1600GTL, and my current R1200GS. I have seven more v.i.n. that I can register on it before I am at my limit. Given my advancing age, I don’t think that will become an issue!
My new Triumph Trophy also requires a diagnostic tool called the DealerTool. While my GS-911 cost me $300, the DealerTool only set me back $100 (a bargain?) Either way, with my closest Dealers more than three hours away, and with the help of Service Manuals and Internet Forums, I am learning to perform most of the services myself, easily paying for these tools. Plus, I am finding out that an “Old Dog” can be taught some new tricks, which is very rewarding in itself.
It sure doesn’t hurt that our mostly crappy Spring has provided me with plenty of quality garage time. That garage heater was definitely a good acquisition!
Since Jan 15th when my 1150 GS tranny took a powder, cobbled one good transmission out of two broken trannys ( got to love garage time with a bottle of scotch), new clutch and spline lube and recently added a 2nd relay on for ignition coils so as to lighten load on ignition switch. Oh yeah and a couple of new (to me) throttle bodies as well. Finally seems to have settled down, I hope!
My new seat is at the post office...
My new seat is waiting at home for me
The fourth power distribution module was the charm.
Installed a FuzeBlock1 yesterday.
Had to wire the lead for my Battery Tender/ Heated Gear directly to the battery, as it requires a 15 amp fuse, more than the FuzeBlock1 allows. Not ideal, but I will be able to easily add new accessories.
What does your heated gear draw?
My jacket liner only draws 90W - less than 8A at 12V. Even then, it is typically only "on" less than 20% of the time. Heated gloves, which I rarely use, are maybe another 30W which puts me pretty close to the maximum.
FZ1 says 10A max per individual circuit with 30A max for the whole device.
If you had it configured for a single circuit for two-up riding or running heated pants/gloves in addition to jacket liner, I can see why you could have issues. (I usually only use jacket liner.) For two-up, I would probably set up a separate switched circuit and run it from the FZ1. Even if you are in the 9-11 amp range, I would consider putting a 15 amp fuse in the block "just in case". Since the cycle is typically far more off than on I doubt it would overtax the circuit but would still offer protection in the event of a short somewhere. (I think I used a 15 A fuse for that circuit in mine.)
The 10A limit should be OK for battery tender although might not run a portable air compressor. I put heated gear/GPS/trailer wiring on switched circuits and battery tender/compressor pigtail on unswitched circuits.
I have a situation with auxiliary lighting where I cannot use the FZ1. I have a total of ~150 watts of LED lights running through a single Clearwater controller (a set each of Ericas and Glendas). Definitely too much for a single FZ1 circuit - especially since these have to be able to run continuously rather than pulsed on/off like heated gear. Currently (pun intended) running straight off the battery but I am planning to set up a fused barrier strip to feed the lights, pigtail for air pump, and the FZ1 plus anything drawing a heavier load. I hate having a bunch of wires hanging off the battery.
I utilize the same pigtail for the Battery Tender, Warm N Safe heated jacket and glove liners, and also for my portable compressor for tire repairs. Both the compressor and heated gear draw more than ten amps. Perhaps my heated gear has greater output than yours? It gets so warm that I never run either thermostat more than 70%.
You could always run each of your Clearwater lights off a separate terminal (and fuse) on the FZ1, and better protect your system at the same time. I, like you, dislike having too many cables attached to the battery terminals. That is the main reason that I opted for the Eager Beaver 3WS and Denali PowerHub2 in the first place. Both were supposed to be capable of supporting 15 amp circuits, switched or unswitched. Too bad that they were both defective!
And, on an amusing note, I was at first concerned about where I was going to be able to mount the Power Distribution Module. Then I noticed that the OEM battery was mounted on top of a molded plastic block. Upon investigation, I discovered that BMW uses two different sized batteries on their bikes, and installs either at the Factory, based on current inventory. I was the recipient of the smaller battery, so once I removed the spacer block, I had just enough room to mount the Fuzeblock1 to a plastic sheet, and neatly place it on top of the battery. Perfect!
The problem with my Clearwaters is that a single controller runs all four lights. I'm happy with a barrier strip somewhere in the nose of the bike to handle higher current applications and the FZ1 to handle lighter stuff. (The FZ1 is under my seat)
Do you sometimes wish to be able to adjust their intensity separately?
If so, I have an unused one I would be happy to give you the next time we meet up.
I pulled the set off my BMW F700GS before trade-in.
I am now able to use the “Wonder Wheel” on my R1200GS to adjust intensity.
Thanks. I will give it some thought. It's nice to have the Ericas on minimum brightness all the time going to full with high beam. The Glenda fork mounted lights (yellow lenses) need to run at half power going to full on high beam. The Ericas on full are NOT friendly to oncoming traffic although a quick flick gets their attention. They turn night into day!
I just changed the engine, tranny, FD oils and greased the splines about 7K ago but just did them again otherwise I'd be pushing 20K before I'd get to do them again.
Thankfully no surprises:
JVB has great info on this. I did mine last year. When I get back from Skills Canada in Halifax I am doing mine... before trans lab trip
I guess it surely doesn’t hurt to lubricate all that stuff so often.
But in my humble opinion, the horror stories of those statistically few that have experienced FD failures have surely created a lot of extra work for those who want to do everything they can to make sure it doesn’t happen to them.
My own suspicion is that many of those who did suffer a failure simply did not change the rear drive fluid at every other oil change, as recommended.
For the first time in my life, I installed an aftermarket exhaust on the Trophy. The addition of a flapper plate on 2011 and later R1200GS’ has given them a nice throaty roar when accelerating briskly, making the Trophy a bit too refined by comparison. Either that, or I am becoming deaf at a quicker rate than I anticipated.
Another member on the Triumph Trophy Forum offered her five month old Trident exhaust for an attractive price when she decided to trade her Trophy for a BMW XR1000. Trident is an approved exhaust Vendor for Triumph in the UK, so it’s products are compliant in the EU. I was shocked at the difference in weight vs. the stock exhaust. When I fired it up after the simple installation, I was pleased that it wasn’t loud, just throatier. It remains to be heard what it sounds like on the open road, as my seat is currently at Russell Cycle Products in Shasta Lake, CA, awaiting a Daylong Sport Saddle conversion.
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