Discussion in 'Technical & Maintenance' started by fortech, Oct 10, 2014.
I agree with your assessment Wayne.
Dealing with humidity can be a tricky thing in garages.
In the summer, my garage stays cool, so the minute I open the door the warm air rushes in. For that reason I use humidity gauge and a dehumidifier all summer.
In winter my thermostat is on 12* which doesn't sound like much. But coming in from temps below zero outside it is much noticeable. I can usually work in the garage with a tshirt. Or if I wanted I could turn the heat up a bit for the time I'm there.
Well it got all the way up to 27 degrees C. today in Phoenix, so after a short errands ride of 50 miles, I returned to my shared parking space, washed the Trophy, and decided to apply the tank guards I purchased months ago. The instructions stated that the outdoor temperature had to be in this range.
I must admit that I am not crazy about how they look, but my riding pants were starting to lightly scuff the paint.
The good news is, they are easily replaced should I change my mind...
I remember reading these instructions when I did mine as well. I used a heat gun to warm up the grips and metal tank. I find warming up most any sticker first helps them sticker better.
Funny how some minds work....without the grips, some people have a mental block for squeezing the tank....for fear of scratching paint. But with grips installed these same people feel more comfortable squeezing the tank when needed.
Some people use the 3-M protective film to cover paint where it could be scuffed, scraped or chipped. Custom precut kits are available for some bikes. https://www.nochip.ca/pages/motorcycle-kit-catalogue
Don't know if anyone has a kit for the Trophy or not. Try here... https://www.chipguard.co.uk/shop/motorcycle-protection/triumph/triumph-trophy-2016-diy-full-kit-2/
Edit - stuff is great for preventing chips in plastic headlights.
I use a product from my work that we call prop tape. I believe the proper name is erosion tape, by 3M. This stuff is really good....it's a clear, rubber like tape that is not really sticky, yet somehow sticks really well. It is easily removable from painted surfaces or even on top of stickers without any damage and no clean up.
Sounds like a similar product. The stuff I used (on my FJR) is perfectly clear and high gloss. No residue or paint damage when removed. Less paint oxidation underneath over the several years I had it in place. Would work well for protecting tank from scuffing from a magnetic tank bag too. Good for tops of the side bags which are known to suffer the occasional boot scuff when mounting/dismounting.
Similar to Frank’s Hot Sauce, I put that sh!t on everything.
Lost my $200 and umpdy-nine dollar headlight protector and the all important BMW roundel on a rough FSR ride last Fall.
Replaced the roundel when I finally got tired of looking at the steering head nut.
But the headlight guard seemed a little under engineered anyway, plus it did nothing for the oil cooler. So, stuck some aluminum screen between two pieces of plexiglass and will give this a go. Combo headlight/oil cooler guard, Pat. Pending LOL
I'll post a few pics later if it works out ok. Not Starbucks quality but good enough for Alaska.
On the FJ-09 I installed a Kevxtx O2 controller for the closed loop efi map, put some foot rests on the crash bars, installed a much louder Denali horn, and cut down the factory wind screen to make a low mini screen.
On th CBF I did an oil and filter.
What benefits will be realized with the O2 controller? First I’ve heard of them.
While not today, last week:
- Removed the front rim and had a new Mitas E07 installed. Unfortunately for me, I just learned last week that Mitas is no longer producing the traditional E07. There is now a new E07+ but it’s a knobbier design than the original. Wish I had ordered a new rear last year in addition to the front.
- Cleaned up the pistons and pins/sliders on the front and rear brakes. Checked pad thickness to ensure within spec.
- Installed my new Garmin 395 GPS that Santa brought a few months back.
- Installed new air filter
- Synced throttle bodies while the tank was lifted and plastics removed for air filter install.
- Ordered new bushings and fork seals for an upcoming fork service. Stopped by the Toybox this afternoon to inquire about them performing the fork service should I pull the forks and drop them off. Received a very reasonable quote so will likely pull the forks soon and drop them off.
I was occupied with another matter today but hoping to perform a road test tomorrow should the weather cooperate.
Pulled my clutch plates out to get them sandblasted and when I drained the oil what did I find?
3 tiny ball bearings
And what looks like a piece of race
I’m a bit surprised as this bike has less than 3000 km’s on it. No idea what bearings in there are that small? My guess is I will be pulling the motor on this one too. Damn!
That can't be good!!
The O2 controller is for the closed loop fuel map that leans out the bike on part throttle opening below 6000 rpm. It makes it have the same A/F ratio as the open loop fuel map. Supposed to even out the surging experienced at small throttle openings when the bike is switching back and forth between the maps.
Had it for a short ride on Sunday and it seems to work as advertised.
Man. That’s sucks...
Small consolation, but at least it happened at home.
Wheelsport in Ottawa has some KTM left over models, 1090 and 1290. Just sayin'
Might be interesting to examine your oil filter for debris and drain the oil through a fine sieve. Might even take off the oil pan to see what interesting stuff has accumulated there. If there is a bunch of stuff and it has been circulating for some time, I would be concerned about severe damage to cams, gears and cylinders and/or blockage of oil passages. I think it calls for a fairly complete tear-down for assessment. Are your skills up to the task (I don't think mine would be)? Is the engine worth it?
What bike is this? For some bikes (like my FJR) a decent used engine from a wrecked bike can be had for $1500 or so. If one could be bought for that sort of money, I would swap the motor rather than get into full-blown repair...
Sorry to hear about your latest set-back Mike.
Maybe it’s time to “cut bait” and look for another bike?
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