Discussion in 'Technical & Maintenance' started by HerrDeacon, Nov 29, 2017.
Or ho ho hold the payments.....no wait, that for Cohen's Furniture.
Here is the bead break I made.
HerrDeacon, flats on the road are not always benign events discovered after a stop somewhere. Here's my experiences with three flats, all blowouts, all rear tires, all at highway speeds. I found a big difference in controlling the bike depending on if I was running tubes or tubeless:
First blowout, tubed tires, 1953 BSA Gold Flash, rear tire blew, Eastbound on TCH Clarenville, no oncoming traffic, used both sides of the road but bike did an end so lost and totalled it. No repair possible.
Second blowout, tubed tires, 1979 Honda CB750, Westbound on TCH in Terra Nova Park, no oncoming traffic, kept the bike upright but needed the whole TCH to do it (happened last left hand turn at the end of Terra Nove Park before you get to Splash and Putt. Tire and tube shot, repair not possible.
Third blowout, tubeless tire, 2006 Triumph Sprint ST, also Westbound on TCH just west of the golf course in Terra Nova Park, light oncoming traffic, needed my own lane and the paved shoulder to control that one. Quick ride back to Canadian Tire on the wife's bike to grab a compressor and tire plug kit. A passing motorist stopped and allowed us to use his cigarette lighter plugin for the compressor to work. Total time actually inspecting, airing up and plugging the tire checking for leaks and tire pressure was less than 20 mins.
I've since wired my bikes for the compressor and carried the plug kit since then but haven't had a flat. My GS has spoked rims with tubeless tires. I can air them down to about 25lbs for dirt roads depending on the surface and top them up again for the highway. If riding conditions call for pressures down in the teens you'll need tubes with bead locks.
WRT tools, it looks like Wayne has a nice bead breaker developed in answer to that question. Also here's a decent tutorial:
There's lots of good vids out there but the one above covers the basics and mentions the rim/bead lock, but its's done in a shop. I've changed dirt bike and touring bike tires in the shed which is preferable to doing it roadside or in a parking lot for obs reasons.
I addition to this I've used a third (longer) spoon, lots of lubricant, mechanics gloves, and a two foot square of some high density foam/ carpet/ cardboard for the wheel hub and your knees. Take lots of extra patches, some good Camel or equivalent glue, and a few two inch tire boots to get you home if you slash the sidewall, a tube scraper (should be one in any kit you buy), a valve lifter, a lighter to do a hot patch, a patch roller and a small piece of wood to put the tube on so you can roll the patch in. White gas or tank gas for cleaning you tube before patching and your hands etc after. A small tarp and a good buddy also helps if it's horizontal rain or blowing snow. Some folks use a tire clip instead of an extra spoon as lighter and less room. A centre stand helps for finding leaks in tubeless tires and in wheel removal for tubed tires as well. If not you might want to fab something up for roadside changes. However I've seen guys lay Goldwings on their side on carpet and remove wheels so it's a personal thing. If you change a few tires, fix a few flats at home you won't be long coming up with a kit that works for you. Good luck.
Thanks Bob, some great info there. I change my own tires (similar way as in that video) but they have all been in the comfort of my own garage, I've been lucky enough to not get a flat on the road yet. Even though I'm comfortable changing tires and getting better each time, I don't like it and don't think I'd really enjoy doing it out on the road somewhere especially since you can't pick when/where it will happen. Plus it seems you really need to carry a few extra tools when running tube tires and I like to ride as light as possible and space is a premium. A few things to consider I guess, I'm not ruling out buying a bike with tubes just yet, but think I will try to find a suitable tubeless bike first or just stick with what I have.
That must have been scary blowing a tire on the TCH, hope I never experience that
Motion Pro makes these levers that double as a bead break. From experience not all tires are difficult to break the bead. The flats that I fixed for Tammy on the trail I believe I just used the side stand and weight of the bike to break the bead.
Seen those levers a couple of years ago on MC Garage, look good. They come in aluminum too to save some weight (9 oz compared to 2 lbs for the steel ones). Heard of using kickstand before but only an option if riding with someone else.
..Now that is pretty slick.....
I just bought a set of those Motion Pro bead breakers after watching RTWPaul swap a couple of tires in my shed. No opportunity to try them yet.
As for flats I had all of the air go out of my front doing 90 kmh on dirt in Labrador, doing full on tank slappers I was waiting to end up in the ditch. I still have no idea how I stayed upright but was awfully thankful that day.
Anybody that has bloody knuckles from trying to get the valve stem from a tube through the rim, I have a great, pain free tip. It might be hard to explain, but I'll give it a go; after you install the tube in the tire, use one lever to pry open the tire. Pry the lever back until it touches the spokes and hold it, then flip the wheel so the lever is kept in place by the ground. Then open the other side of the tire and easily install the valve stem through the rim.
For anybody that knows Q, he also gave me a suggestion. And knowing Q, he probably actually tried this method; he says to install two tubes in one tire, and drill a second hole for the second valve stem. Then inflate one tube. When that one goes flat, simply inflate the second tube. Sounds good, but more than likely the same thing that puncture the first tube would probably have punctured the second tube as well. Not to mention you'd probably have twisting tube issues, which can lead to failure.
There's a little dooflicky thingy you can get that screws into the valve and had a wire and loop the you put through the hole to pull the valve through. No idea where to get one. Maybe Aerostitch or Twisted Throttle?
Princess Auto sells
Princess Auto sells these. I have one, but my above method works much better.
Well after cursing and swearing yesterday during the rear tire install on the CB350 I'm pretty confident now I don't want to be doing this out on some trail or on the side of the road with a much heavier dual sport tire. I'm sure I could do it but it's just more trouble than its worth. It crosses some nice bikes off the list but my sanity is worth more. Won't say never but would have to be a good deal.
Curious to know what you had trouble with.
No real trouble, I just find it a frustrating process and not something like doing. I love working on bikes but tires are my least favourite part. Its OK in my own garage but don't think it would be fun on the road. Should be my last change for a while anyway.
Warm tires are easier to install, so at home I’d leave the tire in the sun for a bit. And usually on the trail, most times it’s on a nice warmish day. Last weekend I installed a tire that was cold after being in my attic, but with a heat gun I warmed it up a bit. Partially inflated tube before installing prevents the tube from twisting (and I have seen twisted tubes installed by a dealership...nasty). And baby powered in the tire allows the tube to slide a bit while installing. Tire lube from Princess Auto works nice too....but not likely you’d have lube on the trail. Also used tires are usually softer/easier compared to a brand new tire.
If you use tire levers with a notch grinded in the end, it’s a great way gauge how deep your lever goes, and actually hooks on the rim. No more pinched tubes!
Did you leave the valve stem nut on? I believe it’s purpose is just for the install only, even though most leave it on. If you do leave it on, I’d recommend having it loose. Otherwise it can tear the valve stem from the tube.
You’re not likely to be swapping tires on the trail, only pulling one side to fix a flat. Can be a pain but it’s not hard.
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